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Due to the cam lift, roller rocker, and head type I'm running I need to use tall perimeter style valve covers. I also have the stock serpentine belt system. My issue is the alternator charging post is way too close to the valve cover now. I tried two different aluminum covers they where too close to alternator post. I bought some cheap steel valve covers and hammer fit them to work. I've never cared for the way that looks and 2 years down the road they are noticeably rusty.
I'm wondering if anyone is using some tall baffled perimeter aluminum covers that have adequate space between the end of the cover and the alternator charging post?
By the way I tried clocking the alternator to a different spot and long story short that just caused other problems so I'm not really open to that suggestion.
What kind of lift are you running that you need super tall covers? I have a tad over .500" of lift on the intake and exhaust valves and I'm running stock 1970s LT1 corvette valve covers with the oil drippers ground off. They clear my full roller rockers just fine and look awesome all polished up with my TPI intake. They are also nicely baffled for the PCV system.
Subroc
Super tall? No, they need not be super tall at all. Just stock height doesn't work. I'm glad you brought that up. I did not mean to leave an impression that need something crazy tall. When I look online for valve covers the only info that I find most of the time is they are listed as stock height or tall so I'm never sure what I'm getting height wise on the tall ones.
Anyway since you asked. A really old set of Trick Flow twisted wedge heads, Lift 0.565, Rocker ratio 1.6, Rocker full roller. I've tried a thick gasket but it just slightly contacts.
Do you have a threaded stud or a block with threaded hole on the back?
You can cut down the threaded stuf a little, the block can be thinned to where it's just got a little meat around the hole. I run those heads on a couple of cars with tall perimeter bolt covers, no problem. Just takes a little modifying.. I run tall chevy bowtie covers on one, had to do a little grinding on thecover and uses a long stud to extend the block (used it as a charging post)
A stud that sticks out and touches the valve cover. The stud isn't threaded like a piece of all thread / threaded rod it has a hole where a bolt goes in.
Hopefully that description makes sense? If not I can always go take a picture of it and upload.
I have the Proform tall, slanted valve covers and ran into the same issue. I took a lot of material off of the alternator stud, clocked the housing and made it work, but it was frustrating. The black boot/cover is pretty much pinched in between the stud and the valve cover. Here's some pics of how it looks now.
Lurbie,
I feel your pain and your picture is my situation. At this point I'm considering getting stamped aluminum covers and welding on a new end then powder coating them. Unfortunately that is the expensive route and I'm really not wanting to spend money for that.
I was fearful about taking a grinder to a brand new alternator, but I had an old alternator to rob parts from just in case anything bad happened. It went okay, but there was a lot of trial fitting and I went slow grinding the material off. It worked okay for my situation and kept me from having to mess up my new valve covers or spend more money in search of ones that would fit. If you do it, just be sure to rap it in masking tape to keep metal shavings out of the alternator. So, maybe that will help you, if you have or find valve covers you like. Good luck with it either way.
i have the pro-form like Lurbie, i dont have problems with my alternator since i have relocated it. but i think you would have problems with clearance for the A/C box if you have that.
I have tall cast covers on mine and run a alt with a stud instead of the factory block thing. I still had to cut down the stud and grind on the cover to get a little more clearance for the rubber boot to fit but its worth it.
I have the Proform tall, slanted valve covers and ran into the same issue. I took a lot of material off of the alternator stud, clocked the housing and made it work, but it was frustrating. The black boot/cover is pretty much pinched in between the stud and the valve cover. Here's some pics of how it looks now.
Originally Posted by TTOP350
I have tall cast covers on mine and run a alt with a stud instead of the factory block thing. I still had to cut down the stud and grind on the cover to get a little more clearance for the rubber boot to fit but its worth it.
I think I've been going about this the wrong way. I decided to look into the case number on these alternators. The case is known as CS130. How do I know this? Well I've been cross referencing numbers and drawings here on my computer while watching Roadkill. It looks like Powermaster makes an alternator Part# 47461 that fits our cars with serpentine belt system BUT has a side mounted battery lug! No more battery lug sticking out the back into the the damn valve covers!
The part number I listed above is for left hand mount alternators. They also make a right hand for those of you that have that set up.
I'm going to order one probably tomorrow after I decide which valve covers I want purely on what I think looks good and Ebay the old alternator.
For those following along, and wondering exactly where the stud is located on the Powermaster 47461 alternator, here it is #1 compared to a stock, rear-stud alternator, and #2 where the stud is located when mounted on the engine.
01-10-2016, 01:05 AM
and Ebay the old alternator.
