89formula350b2l

iTrader: (11)

Awwwwww look so purrrrdy

89formula350b2l

iTrader: (11)

Justin, what did you tell Lloyd your goal was with the cam?

Justin89Formy

iTrader: (26)

400rwhp lol it may be a little shy but should be close

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

if you get that high your doing pretty damn good. I dont think it will get there but high 300's is a good possibility. Still good for 11's

Justin89Formy

iTrader: (26)

yeah im not running as much duration, and a little less lift than his "LE2" cams which net about 405rwhp and 385tq. I should be around 390ish rwhp and 380tq as an estimate.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

forgot you have a T56. IF it was an auto you probly wont see that power but a manual has less of a loss. you still will have a nice motor build even if it does come up short. 380's-390whp is a lot

HiTech5

iTrader: (4)

I normally spec my own custom cams but my last cam was from Ed Curtis at Flow Tech Induction. The cam is a solid roller in my 406 and it's an absolute animal without loss of driveability.

Ed's customer service was excellent.

89formula350b2l

iTrader: (11)

what are the specs on the cam? i can't see the picture of the card

Justin89Formy

iTrader: (26)

223 230 .530 .530 109lsa

89formula350b2l

iTrader: (11)

hmm will your brakes suffer bc of the cam?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

mine was 230/245 on a 109 and i had good brakes still. Just keep idle rpm abit higher, mine was best at 1000 but i tuned it for 900-950 and still had decent brakes, even tho stock thirdgen brakes suck anyways. Also give it lots of idle timing.. 25-26 degrees will help, you can go to 28 too, i tried mine there and it worked good and stabilized the idle, but i eventually went down to 26 degrees when i fixed a IAC condition that was causing some of the erratic idle

I was going to go 240/243 on a 108 this year with single plane/direct port spray but decided to scrap the n/a/nitrous motor. I wasnt gonna be worried about brakes with that cam either

89formula350b2l

iTrader: (11)

Hmmmmmm i dont mind the lopiness, i just dont want to have to stand on the brake pedal to prevent an accident...then again we have to do that anyways!

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

well, i have my AI heads on the car now, and its picked up around 50rwhp SO FAR over my self ported heads. i ran into an issue with valve float. my mistake, i setup the valvetrain the way i had it before, and the new heads have different valve height in them along with being decked some. doh!
my cam is an off the shelf comp cams nitrous hp cam for a late model sbc. 236/248 on a 113lsa. dyno graph was going straight up until 6100 where the valves began to float and it lost 80rwhp. (power fell off a cliff)
so,
old heads- 370rwhp @ 6200
new heads- 410rwhp @ 6100.

i think the new peak hp will be more like 6500, and prob. will make 425-435rwhp.

stock shortblock LT1, th400, 9" rearend, and 28" hoosier slicks were used on both the dyno sessions.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

yeah on some of these custom grinds with some aggressive lobes, or any cam thats gonna want to rev over 6000 rpm, make sure you have some stiff springs

thats one thing about AFR 8019 upgrade springs, they are 155lbs on the seat as is, and a simple .015 shim or so will get them to over 165-170lbs, right where a high revving hyd roller should be

89formula350b2l

iTrader: (11)

hmmmmmm might want to do that then.....the AFR springs that is

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

i've mentioned that to you before i thought, but any spring that will fit those heads and give you the pressure/lift range you want will work.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

i swapped the comp 978's over from the other heads onto the AI heads. they didnt have any issues with valve float with the other heads, so like a retard i just swapped them onto the new heads without checking them correctly. the new heads have a valve that is longer and a valvejob that sinks them a little further into the head. so, my springs had a much taller installed height, and also not as much seat pressure.
the past few evenings ive been swapping a fresh set of 977's on the heads along with .075" worth of shims and shorter pushrods. i would imagine i now have 165+ seat pressure now. this cam's lobes really arent aggressive, they are basically just magnum lobes. some of "B.B"'s cams have lobes so aggressive you would literally need to replace springs every 5k miles or so. not to mention some STOUT springs at that. there for awhile all his customers were experiencing valve float.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Yeah i'm not a fan of having to replace my valve springs every 5-6K miles like some of those cams. If i have to do that i'd just go solid roller and not worry about it. I'd rather set valve lash

I used a valve spring micrometer to verify my installed height. I cant recall what AFR uses from the factory but they rate the springs at 1.800" standard and 1.81" upgraded 8019 springs. My installed heights i dont believe were quite 1.800. To get the pressures i wanted, I ended up using about 1.783" on the exhaust and 1.775" on intake, so they were not quite even but it gave me 170lbs intake and 166 exhaust. More than enough for most any hydraulic roller, my cam wasnt that aggressive on the lobes but had alot of lift. He recommended atleast 155lbs and stated 1.785" installed height would be perfect. LSx guys run the same valve springs and their cams are ridiculous! very steep lobes and they use 1.775-1.785" installed height with the 8019's