85Iroc-Z

iTrader: (4)

Im looking to put the Hooker 2460 Shortie Headers and Y-Pipe on my 305 TPI. If you have used these in the past what are your opinions on them (quality, sound, performance)? Is it worth buying the Hooker Y-Pipe or am I better off having an exhaust shop make one for me? Or do you recommend a different set up all together?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...138+4294925023

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

BADMAN

iTrader: (13)

Hooker 2055's and the Hooker y-pipe come in a set together. Look up 2055 on Summit's website. Also do search or read stickies on the Exhaust Forumn. Issue been covered many times over.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

$400 for something that's poor performance (unless you spend time and money modifying it), eliminates the cat (unless you modify it), and isn't emissions-legal.

Or, $440 for something that's arguably the best available, is emissions legal (although not technically in California for an '85 - but I bet they'd let you get by with it), and you can either retain the cat (would require a '86-'90 TPI single cat system to bolt up), or put in a piece of 3" pipe back to your exhaust.

85Iroc-Z

iTrader: (4)

What makes the 2460's have "poor" performance?

F_N_JUNK

iTrader: (4)

The fact you are getting 1 5/8" primaries!!

If your going to go thru the hassle of taking off the manifolds, just get some long-tubes...

I have several 3rd gens, and I ran 2 sets of Doug's Headers, and 2 sets of Hooker Super Comps. Both have 1 3/4" primaries which is a WORLD of difference. If your gonna drop $400 on and exhaust, do it right the 1st time so you wont have to pay twice


Dougs comes ceramic coated, and Hooker's you can get ceramic but they are pricey and honestley, the dougs are the EXACT same headers for about $200 less (about $500 a set)

That's just my , but you will regret not going with the good stuff, trust me!!

Codename 47

iTrader: (4)

I own the 2460's. First, I wish I wouldn't have bought them. I had a 305 when I bought them even though I knew one day I'd be upgrading my motor. I never thought it'd happen so fast, but what do you know less than a year later I find a cheap 400 small block and I'm putting it in. Now I wish I had long tubes. Hooker long tubes = expensive and no y pipe. Also, they don't meet emissions standards, which isn't a problem up here in Wisconsin though. Are long tubes the route to go for you? I don't know what your plans are. It's up to you. Much more pricey and aren't really needed unless you plan on getting into some serious modding with your motor.

As for the 2460's. They are made out of a thicker gauge steel, so the actual primary size isn't really 1 5/8. The BIGGEST problem with them in my opinion is that the y pipe is 2 1/2. (The y pipe converges into a 2 1/2 pipe). What's the purpose of having a 3 inch catback if you have a 2 1/2 bottleneck at the y pipe.

Like 5-7 said, go with the 2055s. They are arguably the best shorty on the market.
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This I agree with, unless you don't plan on doing anything else to your motor.

If you just want to put exhaust on for a decent performance increase and good tone, you'll be fine with shortys.

F_N_JUNK

iTrader: (4)

Check out this link though.... Spohn is carrying a SWEET new long-tube/y-pipe combo. It's quite pricey, but if you really think about it, after you have a exhaust shop make you a custom exhaust, it's going to basically be the same area...

http://www.spohn1.com/?action=product&pid=1690
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ALso, i made my own exhaust for my camaro w/hookers/dougs. It was quite simple, it has never scraped on anything and the most expensive part was the mufflers (flow-2chambers) it is a true dual with dumps right before the axle

Codename 47

iTrader: (4)

But the Hooker 2055's aren't a bad way to go for the casual performance fan. 440 bucks and it comes with the y pipe. Bolts right in. Nothing to worry about.

800 bucks is ALOT to spend on exhaust for someone who isn't looking to go all out.

I'm not sure if you're getting a catback system, but I would recommend the Magnaflow system. It will need to be custom fit, but is WELL worth it in my opinion. I also had a Hooker system and liked that too.

Titan85

iTrader: (1)

Or for someone trying to redo most of their car on a budget I want the hooker 2055s, but way to much money.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The y-pipe.

Tobias05

2055s. i have a set. love them.

buddy and i just installed a set as well on his 85 lg4 yesterday.

only thing i'd ever run is 2055s.

85Firebird350

iTrader: (3)

+1 for the Hooker catback. I love the sound of them. I went with Hooker 2210's, custom y-pipe and retrofited a SLP loudmouth in my car with a bullet instead of the resonator.

F_N_JUNK

iTrader: (4)

Except that it will rust unless you get it coated..... I agree 100%, but for $100 more you can get long-tubes and ceramic coating

Then just buy the Y-pipe from HTS for $150 and get a cat back made, for under $900 you will be veery happy and have a very, very nice custom set-up.

There is NO POINT in paying $440 for maybe 15-20HP.... waste of money.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

That may be the gain if nothing else is done, but they will support a lot more power than that with other modifications.

Codename 47

iTrader: (4)

Yep. It meets into a 2 1/2" pipe, defeating the purpose of having a 3 inch catback system.

Tobias05

i pulled up their site. not impressed with that setup. don't know which attribute bothers me more, the 2.5 inch y-pipe or the fact that the pipes are routed below the transmission crossmember.

Codename 47

iTrader: (4)

That's the way all long tubes are. You need to go below the transmission cross member.

I know it "sucks" but if you have the power you need the long tubes and you just have to deal with it. Shortys will eventually start to hinder an engine's performance.

And you can get the spohn headers with a 3" collector, you just can't get the y pipe in a 3 inch from them due to ground clearance issues.

F_N_JUNK

iTrader: (4)

And if you have other modifications then getting the shorties make them pointless since it will not let the other mods perform to their greatest potential.....

I say Dougs or Hooker SC and a custom TRUE 3" dual exhaust and nothing else unless you are just looking to make a stock motor look more interesting under the hood.....

Most people just lok at the $$$ part and dont pay attention to the fact of quality/performance/longevity in the price as well. I got a set of Hooker SC's and have had them on the race car for 7 years with not a single problem! I had a set of uncoated Hookers on my 92 and after 2 winters they rusted thru at the main joint to the collector.

Just trying to save you some headache, do whatever you want, and hope it all works out for you in the end!

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

2.5" pipes from each collector is fine - that'll support 450 HP at least in a full dual system. It's 3" after the two sides meet, which is good (better than all but the 2055HKR - same as 2055HKR).

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Rrriiiiigggghhhhhttttt.....

You've got a long tube fettish that you really need to get over. A 305 TPI will not be able to use anything more than 2055HKR's, no matter what you do to it.

Long tubes in 3rd gens will cause loss of ground clearance - there's no getting around that. If you have a trailered track-only car, that isn't going to be an issue. For a daily driver, the limitations of reduced ground clearance will be much greater than any slight power loss from using shorties.

I might gain a few HP going to long tubes & duals on my set-up, but I'd lose a lot more in functionality. I'm not willing to find out if it would be true or not.

Now, I'm going to go out to the parking lot, start up my 2055HKR Jet Hot-equipped CC carb 350 horse daily driver/summer racer, and go take my wife out to a movie. . .

Tobias05

i had a set of hedman LTs before the 2055s. got tired of replacing the y pipe every month.

now if i had the money to do either one of these:




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summed up what i was going to try to say. for a DD bolt on and go, 98% of those out there will be happy with 2055's.

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

You guys are cheap. Most people do headers once on their cars. For the hassle of putting them in, just get the best performing/best fitting set you can get. That being the 2055's for most people.

I paid $1500 for the GMMG and the catalytic converter (shipped, taxed, installed) No matter which header I choose to go for, it's going to be cheaper than $1500. But I certainly don't want to be banging the Y-pipe on every speed bump and steep driveway. That gets annoying real quick. So long tubes are out.

It's either 2055's or Dyno Don headers for me.

1991 RS 305

Read the link below for more on this weird debate..............this is the same old debate, often fueled by five7kid with a very biased 'opinion', heavily biased against the 2460's. Why not sincerely point out the difference in the 2 headers without sarcastically ripping the one you don't own? Who knows, maybe you really wish you had the 2460's but are stuck with the 2055's. I have a set of 2460's on my 85 TPI. My son also has them on his 91 and we both love them. I doubt we, or anyone else, would keep buying them if they were inferior junk. With the exception of simply modifying the Y-pipe so it has a true 3-in outlet, they are every bit the equal of, if not superior to, the smog-tubed 2055's, and look better. Yet, if people prefer or need the 2055's, thats nice, and more power to them for having chosen a proven product from a reputable vender.

Having said this, I don't understand the need to come on here everytime someone asks about any header other than what 'we' use, and slam the other product, or their opinion. Some people around here will attempt to lead you to believe that unless you use exactly what they say to use, its inferior junk because they say so and are a 'moderator'. Unless you absolutely need smog headers, the 2460's are perfect, after modifying the Y-pipe outlet, for a 305-350 3rd gen.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/exha...ker-super.html

Codename 47

iTrader: (4)

I think it's pretty clear that the 2055s are the easiest bolt on header to buy.

After you buy the 2460s and y pipe you're at 360. Then you need to have a shop do some work on it. I'd say you're looking at at least 100 bucks there.

And I'm not bashing something I don't own. I own the 2460s.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Which will cost you as much, after doing so, as buying the 2055HKR's in the first place. Which is my point. Which is why I come on every time someone brings it up in order to point out a reasonable alternative that will produce the same or better results for the same money and less work.

Biased? Only against spending money unnecessarily and causing unnecessary work. Are 2055HKR's perfect as-delivered for all situations? You've never heard me say that, in fact I recommend some do-it-yourself modification (zero cost if you have a grinder) for more serious applications. I even caveatted the emissions issue for the '85 model year in this case.

I pointed out the functional differences, with no sarcasm. I have described the differences to more detail in other threads, I'll accept that I could have gone through the physical differences in this thread as well. However, the originator did say, "Or do you recommend a different set up all together?" Which BADMAN did, and to which I was agreeing.

I was looking at a set of 2460's before being convinced they weren't the best choice. That was before the Hooker y-pipe was available (and before 2055's were very well known). IMHO, Hooker blew it with the way they decided to configure their y-pipe for the 2460's. Had they made them 3" outlet ending in a slip fit to the converter like the 2055HKR y-pipe, I would be more than willing to recommend them for non-emissions applications.

I'm sure the reason people continue to buy them is they are looking only at the initial price of the headers themselves, not the total cost of getting them functional.

When or where have I called them "inferior junk"? I never have. "Inferior", yes. "Junk", never. Don't put words in my mouth. I am not "slamming" 2460's, I'm simply pointing out reasons to consider something else.

I don't recommend 2055's because that's what I've got. For a more powerful set-up, Dyno Don's headers would be much better. You've never seen me "jump in" and tell someone to not get his headers and get 2055HKR's, because that would be inconsistent with the reason I recommend the Hooker 2055HKR's. If I was in the market today, I'm sure I'd be on the horn with Don. If you've got dual cats, I'll gladly recommend Hedman dual cat headers (probably better than 2055HKR w/single cat), or again, Dyno Don's.

And don't try to accuse me of playing the "moderator card". I'm not a moderator on this or the exhaust forum, but I do take the opportunity to contribute as I see fit on such topics as a member in good standing on this Board. Other moderators do the same on forums I do moderate, which is just fine. Although moderators tend to be technically knowledgeable on forums they moderate, that is neither a requirement, nor their primary function (seeing that members abide by Board rules is the primary moderator function, in case anyone was wondering).

1991 RS 305

For the sake of this debate, I'll then hold you to "inferior", not "junk", though one's as bad as the other. "Inferior" and "junk" have been tossed around this topic in the past, and can almost be seen as interchangeable in this case. I never meant to put words in your mouth, just question what you did say.

I agree Hooker blew it and should of made the Y-pipe with a 3 in outlet, which is why I and others "correct" this flaw. Makes no sense why this Y-pipe gets a 2 1/2 in exit, yet the 2055's get the 3 in. I feel in non emissions applications, the 2460's, after "correcting" the Y-pipe, are a great shorty Hooker header for the 3rd gens. In my case, enlarging the Y-pipe exit to 3 in was not too costly. All told, it did not cost me any more than going with the 2055's, plus I didn't have to deal with either the removal of the tubes, or having them in the way since I didn't need them.

I have seen Dyno Dons headers on here, and they look great. Not sure of the cost, but if they fit and perform as well as they look, they're bound to be a winner.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

They decided, for whatever reason, to make the 2460HKR/16767HKR combo as an "off-road" system to replace the LO3 (TBI, for those who don't know) manifolds, y-pipe, and cat, which hooks directly to the stock LO3 cat-back. Eliminates A.I.R. while you're at it. It'll help raise the LO3 170 HP to about 185 (that difference sound familiar?); with other mods you might get over 200 or so, but you'll soon be severely limiting any further gains (as the one whose username I will not repeat was trying to say about any shorty header).

If you can modify the 16767HKR for little to no cost and little time, then you'll end up with a set-up that basically equates to the 2055HKRs (and I have said that in the past). When someone starts by asking if they should have a shop make a pipe for them, that's not indicative of being able to modify the 16767HKR for little to no cost (almost impossible to get out of an exhaust shop around here for less than $100, even if all you want done is to have some things welded up).

Just tell the whole story - that's all I'm trying to do.

Oh, you'll have to talk to Dyno Don about what his headers cost. I haven't seen it posted in public. I'd guess he's competitive with 2055-1HKR's (which seem to keep getting more and more expensive all the time - I got my 2055's in 2001 for $325, had them coated in 2005 for $300).